and the Fuji seat
The Japan Rail Pass: still worth it?
Every time I went to Japan (except the last time), I bought a Japan Rail Pass. Back then it was a no-brainer. But in 2023, the price went up a lot. So these days, I wouldn't immediately recommend it... unless you really plan to do a lot of traveling.
What most people don't know: there are regional passes too. If your big trip stays within one region, say Kansai or Kyushu, a regional pass might be just enough. Do the math before you buy.
And then, my favorite tip. If you take the Shinkansen between Tokyo and Kyoto, ask for a seat on the Mount Fuji side. On my very first trip I did exactly that, and I was super lucky. A clear view of the volcano, right from my seat. The last couple of times? Clouds, or something in the way. So it really depends on the day... but it's always worth a try.
On my last trip, I skipped the pass. I stayed around Osaka, Kobe and Kyoto, took the regional trains, and I loved it. A Suica card did the job, and you can even add it to your iPhone.
Good to know
- Ask for seat E. It's the window seat on the Fuji side (in Green Car, seat D). That's the right side going to Kyoto, the left side coming back to Tokyo.
- What to say at the ticket office: 富士山が見える席をお願いします (Fujisan ga mieru seki o onegaishimasu), "A seat where I can see Mount Fuji, please." Or simply E-seki o onegaishimasu.
- Booking at a ticket machine or online? Just pick seat E.
- When to look: about 45 minutes after leaving Tokyo. It only lasts a few minutes, so don't fall asleep.
- Best chance of a clear view: winter. December and January are your best bet.
- Fastest trains: the JR Pass now covers the Nozomi too, but you pay an extra ticket for it.
- Suica on your phone: add it to Apple Wallet and tap in with your iPhone. It works in Osaka, Kobe and Kyoto too.